Jewelry Periods

Georgian (1760-1837)
Georgian Pearl And Ruby Portrait Locket Circa 1810Popular Motifs: Classical; jeweled hair bands, smaller, more delicate designs; long earrings; cameos; mosaics; bows; floral sprays; feathers; cannetille work (tightly-wound wire goldwork); chatelaines; stomachers;
Materials: Gold; pinchbeck (alloy of copper and zinc);
Embellishments: Diamonds, pearls; paste; colored gemstones; carnelian; rock crystal; marcasite; cut steel; garnets

Early Victorian: 1837-1860
Early Victorian Micromosaic Brooch PendantPopular Motifs: Classical Greek and Roman designs; Gothic and medieval designs; garter jewelry; grapes (usually formed of seed pearls); vines and leaves; eyes (eye miniatures); hands; knots of all types; serpents; hearts
Materials: Gold (all colors except white); pinchbeck; rolled gold; gold electroplate (after 1841); jet; gutta-percha; bogwood or bog oak; hair; tortoise; ivory; aluminum (after 1855)
Embellishments: Stones often cut in cabochon form. Favored stones include: amethyst; citrine; coral; garnets; paste; ruby; topaz; pique; mosaics; cameos (stone, shell, lava, coral); bloodstone; cairngorm; dark blue enameling

Mid- to Late Victorian:  1860-1885
Mid Victorian Watch ChatelainePopular Motifs: Acorns; amphorae; anchor, heart, and cross (hope, love, and faith); beetles; bells; crosses; etruscan motifs; buckles; fringes; tassels; monograms; insects; garter jewelry; hearts; serpents; ram’s head; archaeological motif
Materials (see Early Victorian): Bloomed gold; tiger claws; real beetles; amber
Embellishments (see Early Victorian): All forms of enameling; amethysts (sometimes incised with a flower motif); diamonds; emeralds; coral; pearls; sapphire; turquoise; cameos (done in amethyst, emerald, garnet, jasper, hematite, coral, agate, lava, and shell); intaglios; lapis; cornelian; tourmaline; spinel; rock crystal; aquamarine; zircon (natural brown); demantoid garnets (after 1869)

Edwardian: 1890-1920
Popular Motifs: Clovers; crescent and stars; “Cross-over” designs; hearts (single and double); birds; flowers; horseshoes and other good luck signs; moon and owl; man in the moon; shamrocks; sporting; bats; insectsEdwardian Amethyst Diamond Brooch
Materials: Gold (multicolored) platinum; silver; oxidized silver; copper; rolled gold; celluloid; watch cock covers; gun metal
Embellishments: Opals; moonstone; diamonds; pearls; peridot; sapphires; topaz; amber; glass; jet; turquoise; garnets; mother of pearl; aquamarine; crepe stone; onyx; amethyst; all forms of enameling

Art Nouveau:  1885-1917
Popular Motifs: Female head; serpents; dragonflies; interwoven; asymmetrical flowing lines; flowers; swans; peacock; batsArt Nouveau Dragonfly Brooch
Materials: Gold; silver; silver-plates; gold-filled; horn; ivory; tortoise
Embellishments: Stones cut in cabochon; opals; moonstones; pearls; diamonds (usually small); Pate de Verre; glass; all forms of enameling; rock crystal

Arts and Crafts: 1890-1920
Popular Motifs: Focused on artisans and craftsmanship. Material was secondary to design. Pieces were typically simple and often abstract.
Materials: Brass, bronze, copper and silver
Embellishments: Blister pearls, freshwater pearls, turquoise, agate, opals, moonstones, coral, horn, ivory, base metlas, amber, cabachon-cut garnets and amethysts.

Art Deco:  1920-1930s
Popular Motifs: Simple, clean lines; geometric states; abstract designs; motifs denoting speed; dramatic interplay of colors; shimmery colors; stylized floral motifsArt Deco Brooch
Materials: Platinum; white gold; silver; white metal; Bakelite
Embellishments: Emeralds; ruby; sapphire; onyx; diamonds; rock crystal; marcasites; cornelian; chrysoprase; jade; ivoryArt Deco Diamond And Sapphire Pendant

Retro Modern:  1932-1940s
Popular Motifs: Stylized flowers; cones; spacecraft motif ; bows; ovals with bows; stylized feathers; cornucopia; birds; bold polish curvesRetro Modern Brooch
Materials: Yellow gold; green gold and pink gold (all often used in the same piece; sterling silver; gold-filled; gold-platedRetro Modern Bakelite Brooch With Cherries
Embellishments: Rubies; diamonds; blue sapphires; pearls; faceted and cabochon cut stones often in the same piece; aquamarines; synthetic stonesRetro Modern Bracelet With Faceted Glass And Rhinestones

Postwar Modern: 1945-1965
Popular Motifs: Emphasis on the artistic approach to jewelry making. Handcrafted jewelry by avant-garde artists.Postwar Modern Copper And Enamel Braclet Circa 1950
Materials: Sterling, Gold, Copper, Brass
Embellishment: Enamel, Cabochons, Wood, Quartz and Amber.

Tips for Collecting Costume Jewelry
By Leigh Leshner
Excerpted from “Warman’s Jewelry Field Guide”

Whether it’s jewelry, glass, records or baseball cards, the cardinal rule of collecting is the same: collect what you like.Enameled Pins With Rhinestone Accents

Don’t worry about trends or what’s the hot, new collectible. Focus on amassing a collection that makes you smile, intrigues you and inspires you. Let your imagination run wild.

A collection can consist of bird pins, bracelets or jewelry made by a particular designer or in a particular style After that, focus on condition and quality. Is the piece well made? Is it missing any stones or pieces/ Can it be repaired, and, if so, how much will that work cost?

Most of all, remember to enjoy yourself. Part of the fun is the thrill of the hunt, and finding that one piece that makes your heart stop.

Helpful Hints

• Be conscious of a piece’s condition. Condition affects value. If stones are yellowed, dark or missing,  the value and the price should not be comparable to pieces that are in excellent to mint condition. Red Glass And Rhinestone Earrings
• Unless a piece is rare or is one you truly desire, think twice before you buy an item that is not in good condition.
• To be considered in excellent condition, a piece should have all of its stones and component parts (i.e. clasps, settings, findings) intact.
• There is leeway in terms of condition when it comes to enameling. Over the years, enameling will become worn. However, this means slight age wear, not chips or severe wear.
• Don’t buy a piece of jewelry simply because it’s signed. That doesn’t mean the piece is more valuable.
• Don’t accept excuses for low-quality jewelry. Missing stones and broken pieces are a sign of damage — not age.
• When a piece of jewelry is a popular item, the price may be artificially high and have not bearing on its intrinsic value.
• Take your time to examine the piece. Use a jeweler’s loup to look for signatures and other marks, as well as damage.

Jewelry Glossary

By Leigh Leshner, excerpted from “Warman’s Jewelry Field Guide”

Thermo plastic EarringsAcrylic — First developed in 1927, this lightweight petrochemcial thermoplastic is made from acrylic acid or a derivative of it. It is also known as Plexiglas made by the Rohm and Hass Company and Lucite made by DuPont.

Adjustable clip-back earring — An earring for unpierced ears that uses a screw mechanism that allows the wearer to tighten the finding to the earlobe.

A-jour Setting — An open work setting in which the bottom portion of the stone can be seen. Also a setting in which the metal has open work.

Albert Chain — A watch chain for a man or a woman with a bar at one end and a swivel to hold a watch at the other.

Algrette — Jewels mounted in a shape resembling feathers or a feather motif.

Alma Chain — A chain with broad ribbed links.

Alpaca — An alloy of zinc, nickel, copper and silver that often is found in the more affordable pieces of Mexican jewelry.

Aluminum — A lightweight metal that is light silver in color.

Amber PinAmber —  A fossilized resin from trees indigenous to the Baltic coast known as Pinites Succinifer. This material ranges in color from pale yellow (honey amber), to brown, red (cherry amber) and black. It is translucent, and sometimes dust particles are visible in the material. Amber beads were popular from the 1890s to the 1920s.

Amethyst — A member of the quartz family of stones known for its violet to red-purple hue.  The amethyst was believed to possess the power to protect its wearer and bring good luck. It also is the birthstone for February. Amethysts were very fashionable throughout the Victorian era.

Apple Juice Bakelite — Clear Bakelite that turns amber in color.

Aurora Borealis — A rhinestone that has an iridescent coating. First developed in 1955.

Baguette — A stone cut in the shape of a narrow rectangle.

Bail — A loop for a pendant that allows a chain to go through to suspend the pendant.

Bakelite BangleBakelite — The first manmade plastic. In 1908, Leo H. Baekeland, a chemist, invented a thermoplastic that is commonly known as Basketlite. Bakelite is a synthetic that is often combined with fillers like wood flour and asbestos to make it stronger. The material is also known as phenolic, phenolic resin or pheno formaldehyde. However, the term most often associated with it is Bakelite.

Banded Agate —  Agate that has bands of lighter and darker colors. It can be onyx (black/white), cornelian (orangish red/white), or sardonyx (brown/white).

Bangle BraceletsBangle — A rigid circular bracelet, often tubular and hinged.

Bar PinBar Pin — An elongated pin.

Barrel Clasp — A finding made of two pieces that screw together and that resemble a barrel.

Base Metal — Nonprecious metals that include zinc, tin and lead.

Basse-taille — An enameling technique in which a translucent enameling is applied to an engraved metal surface.

Baton — A stone cut in the shape of a long, narrow rectangle.

Bead Set — Small burrs of metal that rise out of the base of the pin to hold individual rhinestones in place.

Beauty Pins — Pins popular from the mid-1800s until after the turn of the 20th century. Usually less than two inches long with rounded ends.

Belcher Mounting — A claw-type ring mounting on which there were many variations. Popular from the 1870s through the 1920s.

Benoition Chain — A chain worn suspended from the top of the head that encircled the head and dropped down onto the bosom.

Bezel — A metal rim that holds the stone in a ring, a cameo in its mounting, or a crystal on a watch.

Bezel Set — A way of setting the stone in which the stone is held in place by a band of metal that is placed around the outside of the stone.

Black Amber — A misnomer for jet.

Bloodstone — Also known as heliotrope, this stone is a dark green chalcedony with flecks of red, and it was very popular during the Victorian era. Magical powers ascribed to it include the power to stop bleeding and preserve helath. The bloodstone is one of the birthstones for March.

Bloomed Gold — A textured finish on gold that is created by immersing in acid to give it a matte pitted effect.

Bog Oak — Wood preserved in the bogs of Ireland and used to make jewelry during the Victorian era.

Bohemian Garnet — A dark red pyrope garnet.

Bone — A lightweight material that has grain lines that run in a single direction.

Book Chain — Necklaces with stamped, regular folded-over links that resemble a book.

Box Clasp — Box-shaped clasp held together when a v-Shaped catch is inserted into the box.

Brass — An alloy of zinc and copper that is a golden color.

Brilliant Cut — A cut that returns the greatest amount of white light to the eye. It usually has 58 facets. Usually used for diamonds or other transparent stones.

Briolettes — A teardrop-shaped cut covered with facets.

Brooch With Gold Plate BezeBrooch — An ornamental piece of jewelry that has a pin back for affixing it to clothing or hats. Usually larger in scale than the ones referred to as “pins.”

Brooch-watch — A watch with a brooch affixed so it is worn as one would wear a brooch.

Bulla — A round ornamental motif found in ancient jewelry.

Butterfly Jewelry PinButterfly Wing Jewelry — Real butterfly wings are used in the jewelry. Often a picture is painted on top and then it is enclosed in glass with a metal backing.

C-Clasp — A pin closure that holds the end of the pin stem that is shaped like a “C.”

Cabochons In Sterling Silver NecklaceCabochon — A stone cut in round or oval shape in which the top is convex shaped (not faceted).

Cairngorm — Yellow brown to smoky yellow quartz named after the mountain range in which it is found in Scotland.

Calibre Cut — Small stones cut in the shape of squares, rectangles, or oblongs used to embellish jewelry.

CameoCameo — A miniature sculpture in relief. They are generally carved from a single stone where the background is cut away to make a design in relief. Stone cameos were cut from onyx, agate, sardonyx, cornelian, coral, lava and jet. Carvers of shell cameos used the shells of the Black Helmet and the pink and white Queen’s Conches, which were plentiful in the seacoast towns in Italy.

Cameo Habille — A type of cameo in which the carved head is adorned with a necklace, earrings, or head ornament set with small stones.

Cannetille — A type of metal decoration named after the type of embroidery made with fine twisted gold or silver thread. It is done using thin wires to make a filigree pattern. Used frequently in England in 1840.

Carat — A unit of weight for gemstones. Since 1913 one metric carat is one-fifth of a gram or 200 milligrams.

Carbuncle — Today used to refer to a garnet cut in cabochon. In the Middle Ages it referred to any cabochon-cut red stone.

Cartouche — A plate with a signature on the back of a piece of jewelry designating the maker of the piece.

Celluloid And Rhinestone BroochCelluloid — Originally invented in 1855 by Alexander Parks under the name Parkesine. It was later refined and patented John Wesley Hyatt in 1869. Celluloid is an artificial, semi-synthetic thermoplastic made from pyroxylin and camphor that resembles ivory. It is a thin, lightweight material that is sensitive to heat. It can be softened and reused. The problem with this early form of celluloid, comprised of camphor and gun cotton, was that it was highly flammable. In 1927, the compound was refined and vinegar was substituted for nitric acid and camphor so that the material would not be flammable.

Champleve — An enameling technique in which enamel is put into areas engraved or carved into the metal.

Chandelier Earrings — Elongated earrings with drops that resemble chandeliers.

Channel Setting — A type of setting in which stones of the same size are held in place by a continuous strip of metal at the top and bottom, literally creating a channel for the stones.

Chasing — The technique of embellishing metal by hand using hammers and punches to make indentations, thus raising the design.

ChatelaineChatelaine — A metal clasp or hook worn at the waist from which hang a variety of useful items, such as scissors, knives, sewing supplies, coin purses, watches or keys, suspended by chains.

Chaton — The central or main ornament of a ring. A stone that has eight facets on top and eight facets on the bottom. The top is flat and the bottom comes to a point. There are several parts of a chaton. The flat top is known as a table. The girdle is the place where the top and the bottom of the stone meet. The crown is the part of the stone that is above the girdle. The Pavilion is the bottom part of the stone under the girdle. The culet is the point of the stone.

Collar Style NecklaceChoker — A necklace that fits snugly around the neck.

Cipher — A monogram of letters intertwined.

Claw Setting — A style of ring setting in which the stone is held by a series of vertically projecting prongs.

Clip — A piece of jewelry resembling a brooch but instead of having a pin stem to fasten into clothing, it has a hinged clip that hooks over and into the fabric. Very popular from the 1920s-1940s. Sometimes made as a brooch that incorporated a double clip. It could be worn as a brooch or disassembled and used as a pair of clips.

Clip-Back Earring — A hinged-clip earring that is used for unpierced ears.

Cloisonné — An enameling technique in which the enamel is placed into little preformed compartments or cells built on to the metal.

Coin Silver — A mixture of 90 percent silver and 10 percent other metal. It is the standard content of silver coins.

Collet Setting —  A ring setting in which the stone is held by a circular band of metal.

Coral — The calcareous skeletons of marine animals. Many Victorian brooches and earrings were made using natural or branch coral. The most prized colors are deep red and angel-skin pink.

Coronet Setting —  A round claw setting in crown-like design.

Cravat Pin — The same as a tie pin.

Creole Earrings —  A hoop style in which the metal is thicker and wider at the bottom than at the top.

Croix a la Jeanette —  A piece in the form of a heart from which a cross is suspended. A form of French peasant jewelry. Circa 1835.

Crossover — A style of ring, bracelet or brooch in which the stoneset decorative portions overlap and lie alongside each other.

Crown Setting — An open setting resembling a crown.

Cubic Zirconium — A manmade stone that is meant to imitate a diamond and was first made in 1977.

Cuff Bracelet — A bracelet that fits around the wrist and is open in the back so you can slide it on the wrist.

Cufflinks — A decorative piece of men’s jewelry used to close the buttonholes on the cuffs of a shirt.

Cultured Pearl —  A type of pearl induced and stimulated by man to grow inside a mollusk.

Curb Chain —  A chain in which the oval flattened links are twisted so that they lie flat.

Cushion Cut —  A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners. Also called “antique cut.”

Cut Steel Jewelry —  Riveted and faceted beads that are made from a thin metal and then applied to another metal plate. It is then cut into a design. The beads shine and sparkle from the light reflecting off of the facets. With the advent of industrialization, later versions of imitation cut steel were made by stamping the beads from a sheet of metal. Cut-steel jewelry was popular from the 1760s until the late 19th century.

Cymric —  A trade name used by Liberty & Co. for articles sold by them that were designed and manufactured by English firms. The name was adopted in 1899.

Dead Stone — A rhinestone that has lost its brilliance and luster. Dead rhinestones can appear to be black, grayish or yellow in color.

Decal — A design that is applied to imitate hand painting.

Dentelles — A stone that is formed in a mold and then hand cut. There are 18, 32 or 64 facets on the back and front of the stone. Light is refracted through the facets in the surface of the stone.

Designer —  A person who designs jewelry. Occasionally they were also makers of jewelry.

Damascene —  The art of encrusting metals with other metals.

Demi-parure —  A matching set of jewelry consisting of only a few pieces such as a necklace with matching earrings or a bracelet with matching brooch.

Demi-hunter —  A watch with a lid over the face in which there is a circular hole in the middle to expose the hands of the watch.

Diamond — A hard gemstone availabe in a variety of colors. Some are colorless, while others may have a yellowish  or bluish tinges. Diamonds are judged by carat weight, cut, clarity and color.

Dog Collar— A wide, choker-style worn above the neck. Dog collars may consist of rows of beads or a wide band.

Doublet— An assembled stone consisting of two materials, usually garnet and glass.

Dress Clips Made Of BakeliteDress Clip — A flat, back-hinged mechanism attached to the back that has prongs on the underside of the clip to adhere to clothing.

Ebonite — The first semi-synthetic material. It is a molded rubber that is created in a process similar to that of vulcanite.

Edwardian Jewelry  —  Jewelry made during the reign of Edward VII, 1901-1910 that does not fall into the art nouveau or Arts & Crafts movement category.

Electro-plating —  The process of covering metal with a coating of another metal by using electrical current.

Electrum —  A pale yellow alloy made by mixing 20 percent gold and 80 percent silver.

Emerald — A favorite gemstone of the 1920s and 1930s. Emeralds are part of the beryl group of colored stones. The gem is also a May birthstone.

Emerald Cut — A square-cut stone with faceted edges

Enameled Fish Pin With Cabochons Enameled Hat PinEnamel —  A glass-like material used in powder or flux form and fired onto metal.

Engine-turning —  Decoration with engraved lines produced on a special lathe.

Engraving —  A technique by which a design is put into a metal surface using incised lines.

Eternity Ring —  A ring with stones set all the way around. Symbolizing the “never-ending” circle of eternity.

Expandable Bracelet — A bracelet that expand and stretches to fit the wrist. This is sometimes known as a “Carmen” bracelet.

Faux PearlsFaux Pearls — A glass or plastic bead coated with a lacquer to imitate real pearls.

Faceted Glass Bead — Glass that is molded into a bead and cut with facets to refract the light.

Fede Ring —  An engagement ring that features two hands “clasped in troth.”

Ferronniere —  A chain that encircles the forehead as portrayed in Leonardo da Vince’s “La Bel Torronnier.” A 16th century adornment; it was revived during the Victorian era.

Figural Scottie Dog PinFigural Jewelry — Jewelry designed to look like objects such as flowers, animals, vegetables, people and insects.

Filigree PendantFiligree —  A decorative technique where fine wires are manipulated into an openwork design.

Flat Back Rhinestone — A rhinestone where the top of the stone is faceted and the back is flat.

Fob —  A decorative pendant/charm-type ornament suspended from a watch chain.

Foil —  A thick layer or coating used on the back of stones to improve their color and brilliance.

Fold Over Clasp On BraceletFold-Over Clasp — A clasp where one end of the finding opens and closes with a hinge and then snaps shut over the connecting piece.

French Jet —  A misnomer, as it is neither French nor jet. This term usually refers to black glass.

Freshwater Pearl — A small, oblong, irregular-shaped pearl from a freshwater mollusk. Freshwater pearls are less valuable than oyster pearls.

Fruit Salad — Molded crystals of highly leaded glass in a form to resemble sliced fruit.

Fur Clip With Cabochons And EnamelingFur Clip — A hinged mechanism attached to the back that has two long, thin prongs to pierce clothing.

Galaith — In 1877, Adolph Spitteler was attempting to create a substitute for horn and he created galalith, the trade name for casein or milk plastic. It is made from a protein substance derived from sour milk combined with formaldehyde that softens in hot water. The term galalith is Greek with “gala” meaning milk and “litho” meaning stone. It is also known as erinoid, karolith and aladdinite.

Garter Jewelry — Inspired by the Royal Order of the Garter, the highest honor a British monarch can bestow. Members of the order wear a blue garter buckled on the knee. Queen Victoria instead chose to wear it on her arm. Bracelets with this design were plentiful. Rings were made in the form of a garter, and lockets were ingraved with the motif.

Garnet — A January birthstone that is most commonly associated with a deep red color. Garnets can be found in every color except blue. Pyrope garnets are the deep red stones. Almadine garnets have a slightly purplish tint, while demantoid garnets are a rich, emerald green color and are considered to be the most valuable garnets.

Gate —  A channel in a mold through which the molten metal flows during the white metal spin-casting process.  Also refers to that part of the cast piece that is wasted.

German Silver — A mixture of nickel, copper and zinc. It is also known as nickel silver or gunmetal.

Gilloche —  Engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. Usually used as a base for translucent enamel.

Girandole —  Brooch or earring style in which three pendant stones hang from a large central stone.

Gold — In the United States, the purity of gold is designed by karat. Pure gold is 24K but is often too soft, so copper, silver, zinc and nickel are added to strengthen the gold. The amount added determines the karat of the gold. In Europe, the purity of gold is designated by fineness. Pure gold is 100 percent fine.

Gold Filled Hinged BraceletGold-Filled — Made by joining a layer of gold to base metal. It is not filled with gold, and it is thicker and more durable than rolled gold plate.

Gold Plated Art Deco Dress ClipsGold Plate Cabochon EarringsGold Plating — Plating is used to give the appearance of gold. White metal is dipped into a copper bath and then dipped into a nickel or chromium bath. Electromagnetic acid is added so that the gold plating will adhere to the metal.

Goldstone  — A misnomer for imitation aventurine made of glass, to which copper crystals have been added. Goldstone often was used for the ground of some mosaics and as a stone for cuff links or stick pins.

Gunmetal — An alloy of 90 percent copper and 10 percent tin that was very popular in the 1890s.

Gutta-percha —  A hard rubber material made from the sap of a Malayan tree. In 1843, while in Malasia, Dr. Mongomerie discovered that the natural material that was scraped by hand from the Palaquium trees was being used to make many items, the substance, in its natural form, was hard and inelastic. But when it was placed in hot water, it softened, and it could then be pressed into shapes for a variety of uses. Gutta-percha was used for making jewelry, statuary and even furniture.

Gypsy Setting —  A type of setting in which the stone is set down flush in the mounting.

Hairwork Jewelry —  Jewelry made using  hair. This style was popular in the early years of the 19th century. Bracelets and watch chains were among the most popular pieces.

Hallmark —  A group of markings used on silver or gold in England since 1300 to designate the fineness of the metal, the town in which it was assayed, and the name of the maker.

Hand-Painted Porcelain — Porcelain, a fine clay, is hand-painted, glazed and fired and then set in findings to create various pieces of jewelry.

Hand-Set — Stones are glued in individually in the scooped-out cup in the metal.

Hand-Set With Metal Prongs — Stones are handset, and then metal prongs are bent over the top of the stone.

Hinged Bangle — A bracelet that is cut in half and then attached with a hinge that allows for it to be opened to fit over the wearer’s wrist and then closed shut.

Holbeinesque  —  A style of jewelry popular in England in the 1870s. Its inspiration was from the design of Hans Holbein the Younger.

Hook Fastener — A clasp that hooks over a beaded chain to attach two sides together.

Hook And Eye Clasp — A clasp made up of two pieces where the eye fits over the hook to close the necklace or bracelet.

Horn — A natural substance that comes from the tusks and horns of animals. The substance is ground, pressed and heated. When it is heated, horn becomes transparent and a pale yellow color.

Hunting Case  —  A watch that has a lid covering the face. A case spring is activated by pushing on the crown causing the lid to pop open.

Incise —  A line cut or engraved in a material.

Intaglio —  A design cut below the surface of stone. The opposite of a cameo.

Intarsia —  The use of stones to make a picture by cutting them out and inlaying them flushed into a background stone.

Ivory — A lightweight material that comes from the tusks of elephants, walruses, hippopotami and warthogs. Ivory from elephants has grain lines that are crosshatched; other ivories have wavy grain lines.

Jabot Pin —  A type of stick pin worn on the front of ladies’ blouses.

Japanned Metal — Metal that is coated with a coal tar derivative to give it a black color.

Jet —  A very hard, lightweight black or brownish black coal-like material that is easily carved and can keep a sharp edge. Jet is a type of fossilized wood.

Jump Ring — A round finding that is attached to other parts to link the pieces together.

Karat —  Pure gold is 24 karats. The karat of gold alloy is determined by the percentage of pure gold. For instance 18K gold is 750 parts pure gold and 250 parts other metal or 18 parts pure gold and 6 parts other metal.

Lava Jewelry —  Jewelry made of the lava from Mt. Vesuvius. Usually carved into cameos or intaglios and sold as souvenirs of the “grand tour.”

LavaliereLaveliere — A small, delicate pendant that is suspended from a chain. In the 1890-1910 era it usually had a baroque pearl appendage. The word is probably derived from the Duchess de la Valliere, a mistress of Louis XIV.

Line Bracelet —  A flexible bracelet composed of stones of one size or graduating in size, set in a single line.

Luckenbooth Brooches —  So called because they were sold in street stalls (Luckenbooths) near St. Giles Kirk in Edinburg. The motif usually consisted of one or two hearts occasionally surrounded by a crown. When the motif included the initial “M,” the brooch was referred to as a Queen Mary brooch.

Lobster Claw Clasp — A clasp that has a lever to open the clasp so that a jump ring can be inserted and then held into place when the latch is closed.

Locket PendantLocket — A pendant that opens to store a photo or other memento inside.

Laminated Lucite RingsLucite — In 1937, DuPont introduced this clear material. It often is tinted to add color. Lucite can be clear, tinted or opaque, with opaque Lucite often being referred to a moon-glow.

Macle —  A flat-bottomed diamond crystal.

Mandrel —  A replica made of wax or white metal used as a core onto which metal is deposited during the electroplating process.

Jewelry Featuring Cabochons And MarcasiteMarcasite PinMarcasite —  Faceted iron pyrite meant to imitate diamonds.  A misnomer that is now the commonly accepted trade name for pyrite. Popular from the 18th century onwards.

Marquise —  A boat-shaped cut used for diamonds and other gem stones. Also called a “navette” shape. This oval-shaped stone has a point on each side of the stone and a flat top.

Mechanical Charm — A charm that has a moving part.

Memento Mori —  “Remember you must die.” Grim motifs such as coffins, skeletons, etc. Worn as a reminder of one’s mortality.

Millefiori — glass that consists of many canes of glass that are fused together to create a design.

Millegrain —  A setting in which the metal holding the stone is composed of tiny grains or beads.

Mine Cut — A square stone with rounded corners, sometimes called a cushion shape. Thirty-two crown facets and 24 pavilion facets with a table and a culet.

Mizpah Ring —  A popular ring of the 19th century consisting of a band with the word Mizpah engraved across the top. “May the Lord watch between me and thee while we are absent from the other.”

Moonstone — A gem popular from 1890-1920. Moonstone is a type of translucent feldspar. It is one of the June birthstones.

Micromosaic NecklaceMosaic Earrings Mosaic — A piece of jewelry in which the pattern is formed by the inlaying of various colored stones or glass. Roman mosaics are made of small pieces of colored glass that, when put together, look like a miniature painting, usually landscapes, archaeological ruins or religious motifs. Pietre dure is thin slices of colored stone that is cut to fit together to form a picture, often depicting flowers or birds.

Mother of Pearl — The iridescent lining of some mollusks.

Mourning Jewelry —  Jewelry worn “in memory of” by friends and relatives of the deceased. Often sums of money were set aside in one’s will to have pieces made to be distributed to mourners attending the funeral.

Muff Chain —  A long chain worn around the neck and passed through the muff to keep it secure.

Necklace Lengths —  Choker-15 inches, Princess-18 inches, Matinee-22 inches, Opera-30 inches, Rope-60 inches long.

Negligee — A necklace that has two uneven hanging drops from it.

Nickel Silver —  A combination of copper, nickel, zinc, and sometimes small amounts of tin, lead, or other metals.

Niello —  A decorative technique in which the metal is scooped out (in the same manner as champlive) and the recessed area is filled with a mixture of metallic blue black finish. The technique dates back to the Bronze Age.

Old Mine Cut —  An old style of cutting a diamond in which the girdle outline is squarish, the crown is high and the table is small. It has 32 crown facets plus a table, and 24 pavilion facets plus a culet.

Opal — One of Queen Victoria’s favorite stones. There are three types: precious, fire and common. The precious opal has a multicolored iridescence that changes when exposed to different angles of light. The most common color of precious opal is white, but there also are opals in colors of gray, blue, green and black. Fire opals are named so for their orange color. Common opals vary in appearance; there are agate opals, wood opals, honey opals, milk opals and moss opals.

Paste Jewelry  —  Jewelry that is set with imitation glass gems. Very popular in the 18th century, it provides us with many good examples of the jewelry from that time period.

Parure  —  A complete matching set of jewelry usually consisting of a necklace, earrings, brooch, and bracelet.

Pate de Verre —  An ancient process in which glass is ground to powder, colored, placed in a mold, and fired. It was revived in the 19th century and used to make many pieces of art nouveau jewelry.

Patina — The result of aging, which affects the metal surface of the jewelry. This often occurs due to oxidation as a result of exposure to air and sunlight.

Pavé Setting —  A style of setting in which the stones are set as close together as possible, presenting a cobblestone effect.

Pear Cut — A faceted, teardrop-shaped stone.

Pearl — A gemstone that grows inside a mollusk, such as an oyster. The mollusk secretes a substance that has a lustrous color and coats the piece of sand that has found its way inside the mollusk. A pearl is formed by the buildup of this substance over many years’ time. Pearls come in a range of colors, including pink, cream, white gold, orange and black (the most valuable).

Pebble Jewelry  —  Scottish jewelry (usually silver) set with stones native to Scotland. Very popular during the Victorian era.

Portrait PendantPendant — A decorative hanging ornament that is attached to a necklace.

Pendeloque —  A faceted drop-shaped stone (similar to a briolette) that has a table.

Peridot — A soft, brittle gemstone most commonly associated with an olive-green color, although yellow-green and brownish peridots are common, as well. It is one of the August birthstones.

Photograph Brooches — Louis J.M. Daguerre invented a photo process that led to the advent of photography. With the ability to take pictures of loved ones, jewelry that incorporated these photos soon followed. Photographs were inserted into brooches by being placed under glass. Some of the brooches were two-sided with one side housing the photograph and the other housing a lock of hair of the loved one.

Pietre dure  —  (Hard Stone). Flat slices of chalcedony, agate, jasper, and lapis lazuli used in Florentine mosaic jewelry.

Pinchbeck —  An alloy of copper and zinc invented by Christopher Pinchbeck in the 1720s that looked like gold. It was used for making jewelry, watches, and accessories. This term is very misused today. Some dealers refer to any piece that is not gold as “pinchbeck.”

Pin Back — A mechanism that consists of a pin-stem and closure apparatus that is attached to the back of a brooch.

Pique —  A technique of decorating tortoiseshell by inlaying it with pieces of gold and silver. Popular from the mid-17th century until Edwardian time.

Plastic —  A lightweight, synthetic material.

Platinum And Diamond PendantPlatinum —  A rare heavy, silvery white metallic element that is alloyed with other metals and used to make fine pieces of jewelry.

Plique-a-jour BroochPlique-a-jour — An enameling technique that produces a “stained glass effect” because the enamel is held in a metal frame without any backing. An ancient technique, it was revived and used extensively by art nouveau designers.

Poincon —  A French term for the mark on French silver similar to the English hallmark.

Point Back — A Rhinestone that has a back that culminates in a point.

Post — An earring finding for pierced ears.

Posy Ring —  A finger ring with an engraved motto (often rhymed) on the inner side.

Pot Metal Dress ClipsPot Metal — A mixture of metals that were all thrown in a pot and melted down. This type of metal laws prevalent and is recognizable due to its dull finish.

Princess Cut — A faceted square-cut stone, sometimes now known as a quadrillion or squarillion cut.

Prison Ring — Inmates in prison would take a toothbrush, a shaving brush or a pen and melt it down and then use celluloid to bond it together. They would often add pictures onto the front of the ring.

Prong Set — Stones are set and then metal prongs are bent over the top of the stones by a machine.

Regard Ring —  A finger ring set with six stones of which the first letter in each spells REGARD. The stones most commonly used were:  Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby and Diamond.

Repoussé Work —  A decorative technique of raising a pattern on metal by beating, punching, or hammering from the reverse side. Often called embossing.

Reverse-Carved — Lucite, transparent Bakelite and acrylic materials are carved on the inside and often infused with flowers or painted with fish, dots, animals or geometric designs.

Moonglow And Rhinestone PinRhinestone —  Originally rock crystal found along the banks of the Rhine River. Today, a misnomer for colorless glass used in costume jewelry.Rhinestone Earrings

Rhodium Earrings Rhodium Necklace With Green Faceted Glass And RhinestonesRhodium —  A non-tarnishing white metal that resembles platinum. It has a shiny, bright veneer. It is an expensive finish and is often sued to plate base metals to give them a platinum-like sheen.

Riviere —  A style of necklace containing individually set stones of the same size or graduating in size that are set in a row without any other ornamentation.

Rose Cut —  A cutting style in which there are 24 triangular facets meeting at the top with a point. The base is always flat. Diamonds cut this way are usually cut from macles.

Round Cut — A round-shaped stone with faceted edges.

Ruby — A red gemstone particularly popular in the 1920s and 1930s. Rubies are part of the corundum group of colored stones. The ruby is a July birthstone.

Ruolz  —  A gilded or silvered metal named after the French chemist who invented the process.

Safety Catch — A brooch finding that holds the pin-stem in place securely with a swiveling closure that prevents it from opening.

Sautoir —  A long neck chain that extended beyond a woman’s waist. Usually terminating in a pendant or tassel.

ScarabScarab — A type of beetle often used by designers who carved or molded the design to create stones to use in jewelry, creating Egyptian designs.

Screw Closure Clasp — A clasp made of two pieces with one piece screwing into the other component.

Screw Back EarringsScrewback Earrings — Earrings for unpierced ears that have a screw mechanism that allows the earrings to be tightened against the earlobe.

Serpent Jewelry — A motif for jewelry made popular after Albert gave Queen Victoria an engagement ring in the form of a serpent. The snake motif was believe to be a symbol of good luck, and it was used throughout the Victorian period.

Siam Silver — Siamese jewelry made of silver that has designs of ancient mythological characters from the story of Ramayana.

Signet Bangle  —  A hinged tubular bracelet with a central plaque for engraving. Very popular in the 1890-1910 time period.

Signet Ring —  A ring with a central plaque on which one’s initials were engraved. Sometimes a seal or crest was used.

Scarf Pin —  A straight pin approximately 2-1/2 inches long with a decorative head. It was used between 1880-1915 to hold the ties in place. It is the same as a tie pin.

Seed Pearl  —  A small pearl weighing less than 1/4 grain.

Shank —  The circle of metal that attaches to the head of a ring and encircles the finger.

Silver Plate — Created when electricity is used to apply a coating of silver to base metal.

Upper Arm BraceletSlave Bracelet — A bangle worn on the upper arm. Also, a bracelet made up of metal links and glass often accompanied by enameling.

Slide Bracelet — A bracelet with a finding that is decorative and moveable to adjust where it opens and closes.

Spring Ring — A clasp finding that has a spring level so it can be opened to insert a jump ring and then closed.

Sprue  —  A rod attached to the base of a mold model to provide a channel in the mold through which the wax can flow.  This sprue also becomes a part of the wax and consequently a part of the casting.

Square Cut — A square-shaped stone with faceted edges.

Star Setting — A popular setting in the 1890s in which the stone is placed in an engraved star and secured by a small grain of metal at the base of each point.

Sterling Fish EarringsSterling LocketSterling —A silver compound that contains 92.5 percent silver. Sterling silver usually will be hallmarked with the word “sterling” or an assay mark on the back of the piece of jewelry. This was widely used during World War II because the other metals that had traditionally been used in jewelry production were being used for the war effort.

Sterling Vermeil — Sterling silver that is dipped in a gold plating, generally yellow or rose gold.

Stickpin — A decorative piece attached to a pin-stem with a pointed end to attach to clothing.

Stomacher —  A large triangular piece of jewelry worn on the bodice and extending below the waistline. An 18th century style that was revived during the Edwardian period.

Swivel —  A fitting used to attach a watch to a chain. It has an elongated spring opening for attaching the watch. The swivel allows the watch to hang properly.

Synthetic — A manmade material with the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as the natural. Not to be confused with imitation.

Sweetheart Jewelry — A sign of support for the war effort and as sentimental treasures for those who were fighting the war.

Taillé d’Epergne —  An enameling technique in which engraved depressions are filled with opaque enamel.

T-Bar or Toggle Clasp — A clasp that is used for necklaces or bracelets that consists of a t-bar that inserts through the circular piece of metal to close.

Tapered Baguette — A narrow, elongated, rectangular-shaped, faceted stone that is larger at one end and then slims down toward the other end.

Tie Bar — A decorative piece to be worn on a tie.

Tie Tack — A pointed pin-stem that fits into a backing that slides onto the pointed end when you pinch it together.

Tiffany Enameled BroochTiffany Setting —  A round six-prong mounting with a flare from the base to the top.

Tortoiseshell — Comes from the hawksbill turtle. The shell is an organic substance that can be heated, ground and pressed.

Trademark —  The mark registered with the U.S. Patent Office that identifies a wholesaler or retailer.

Trembler — A piece of jewelry that has a moveable part that is attached to a spring that moves as the person who is wearing the jewelry moves.

Triangle Cut — A triangular-cut faceted stone based on a brilliant-style cut.

Trombone Catch — A pin closure that holds the pin stem shut when the catch is slid over the pointed end of the pin.

Unfoiled Dentelles — A large glass stone that is modeled and then hand-cut to add facets. The light is refracted through the faceted cuts on the glass. There is no backing on the glass. This stone was popular from the 1920s through the 1940s.

Unfoiled Glass Stones — An unfoiled glass stone that is hand-cut with facets.

Vermeil And Rhinestone BraceletVermeil— Gilded silver. Sterling silver with a gold plating.

Vulcanite — A molded rubber that is heated with sulphur. When this process is taken to extreme measures, the material becomes vulcanite. In 1843, Thomas Handcock patented the process for vulcanized rubber in England. In 1844, Charles Goodyear patented the process in the United States. These methods involved a process of making the rubber elastic and then as the process continued, the rubber became hard and was able to be molded.

Elgin Pocket WatchWatch Chain — A chain used to connect a pocket watch to the pocket of a vest.

Bulova WristwatchWatch Hook — A finding that is placed on the back of a pin so that a watch can hang from it.

Watch PinWatch Pin — A pin that has a watch.

Wedgwood — Founded in 1752, Wedgwood is a pottery company that made some porcelain jewelry.

White Gold— An alloy of gold, nickel, and zinc developed in 1912 to imitate the popular platinum.

White Metal —  A mixture of 92 percent tin with cadmium, lead and zinc. A base metal of tin, lead, bismuth, antimony, and cadmium used in the manufacturing of costume jewelry. The tin content can vary from 17 to 92 percent. It can be electroplated to any color desired. The next layer, leaving the design in relief. Also done in shell, coral, and lava.

A Brief History of Clock Making

The historical information and dates that follow present a succinct review of horological history. We have tried to show facts as accurately as our research permits, keeping in mind that sources sometimes differ on dates, names and other facts relevant to clock history.

885 — Candles were used as clocks; an idea introduced by Alfred the Great of England.

1386 — England’s earliest known public clock was installed at the Salisbury Cathedral. It had no hands but told the time by striking on the hours.

1500 — Peter Henlein of Nurnberg invented the mainspring.

1530 — Screws for metal work became available.

Circa 1584 — Galileo (1564-1642), an astronomer, physicist and college professor, born in Pisa, Italy, is credited with discovering the properties of the pendulum. Galileo was a 20-year old college student (according to some sources, slightly younger) when on a visit to the city’s cathedral, he watched a suspended lamp swinging to and fro. Timing it with the beat of his pulse, he discovered that a short swing moved slowly while a long one moved more rapidly. Because of this, the time taken for the completion of a swing back and forth was the same for both.

Early 1600s — Pendulums with anchor or dead-beat escapement replaced the less accurate foliot balance.

Among the colonists who settled in 1607 and 1620 were skilled workers, including those with clock making knowledge. They made clocks one at a time, relying on England for their supplies.

1657 — Dutch scientist, Christiaan Huygens, created the first pendulum based on Galileo’s observations. The pendulum’s back and forth swinging motion served as a clock’s regulating mechanism.

1660 — The balance or hairspring came into use.

1673 to 1771 — George Graham’s two essential contributions to clock making were the dead-beat escapement and the mercurial compensation pendulum.

1680 — Second hands made their first appearance.

1700 to 1799 — Clocks appeared in homes as a mark of prosperity.

1715 — The deadbeat escapement for use on regulator clocks was invented.

1730 — The German clock maker Anton Ketterer made his first cuckoo clock.

1759 — Thomas Mudge of London invented the lever escapement.

1765 — Pierre Le Roy of Paris made the first compensation balance.

1772 to 1852 — Eli Terry became known as the father of the clock making industry.

Pre 1775 — In colonial America, craftsmen made clocks to order, one at a time. This was an expensive process. Brass movements were fashioned by hand with simple tools. Boston, New York and Philadelphia were all centers for the production of the tall-case floor clocks, better known as grandfather clocks. During this time, several hundred clockmakers were at work in the colonies.

1775 to 1783 — Clock making in the colonies came to a halt during the Revolutionary War as clock makers joined the fighting forces or made equipment for the soldiers. Many clock makers became gunsmiths.

1790 to 1812 — Gideon Roberts, a Revolutionary War veteran, possibly was the first to use mass production methods in his Bristol, Connecticut, clock factory where both hanging wall clocks and tall-case clocks were made. Many were sold to out-of-state buyers. Since brass clock works were expensive, he created his own wooden movements and used printed paper dials. Some clocks were made without cases. Since the pendulum could be seen easily as it swung back and forth, the descriptive phrase “wag on the wall” became an appropriate name for these caseless clocks. Of course, a buyer could make a case or have a wood worker fashion one and then he would own a conventional clock. Roberts assembled his 30-hour tall-case clocks with their wooden movements in groups of 10 or more at a time. This innovation speeded up the production process and made less costly clocks available to buyers.

1793 — Following the completion of his apprenticeship, Eli Terry began making clocks near Plymouth, Connecticut.

After 1800 — Watch WorkingsEli Terry learned how to use water power to drive machinery. This helped to increase the production of clock parts.

1802 to 1840 — Simon Willard made about 4,000 clocks during this time span. One was the banjo clock, which sold for about $35.

Early 19th century clock making was difficult because metal was scarce and the supply of glass was limited. Everything had to be done by hand and the craftsman and his apprentice used the simplest tools in their work: a hammer, drill and file.

1802 — Simon Willard patented his “Improved Timepiece,” later called the “banjo” clock because of its shape. Originally, most examples were time only. Clock makers have consistently copied this popular style over the years.

Eli Terry established his first factory.

1807 to 1809 — The Jefferson Embargo limited the importation of material from English factories.

1807 to 1810 — Eli Terry contracted to make an unheard of 4,000 hang-up clock movements at $4 each in three years. The water power-driven machines he designed produced identical interchangeable wooden parts for inexpensive (grandfather type) clock works. Silas Hoadley and Seth Thomas worked for him. Terry is credited with introducing the factory system of mass production. This helped start the factory system in the United States. Inexpensive clocks, made in quantities, became available to the public.

1809 to 1810 — Eli Terry established a partnership with Seth Thomas.

1810 to 1813 — Seth Thomas and Silas Hoadley bought Eli Terry’s Plymouth clock shop. Thomas sold out in 1813 and Hoadley continued in business.

1812 — Eli Terry set up an experimental shop that produced low-priced wooden shelf clocks.

1813 — Seth Thomas set up his own shop in Plymouth Hollow, Conn., where he became a prolific clock maker.

1816 — Eli Terry patented a pillar-and-scroll shelf clock with a 30-hour wooden works that evolved from his plain box-type case. This clock cost about fifteen dollars and ran 30 hours on a single winding. For a short time, Chauncey Jerome made clock cases for Eli Terry.Watches

Circa 1818 — Joseph Ives made a brass clock movement with steel plates. An agreement was reached between Seth Thomas and Eli Terry that stated Thomas was to pay Terry a royalty of 50 cents for each clock made. Sales under this agreement produced about 5,000 clock movements.

1820 to 1840 — Most of the Connecticut clock industry produced wooden shelf clocks. These clocks sold for less than $10. Brass clocks, on the other hand, ranged in price from $15 to $33 or more.

1824 — Chauncey Jerome formed a partnership with his brother, Noble, and Elijah Darrow for the manufacture of clocks. The firm was called Jeromes & Darrow, and was the largest producer of clocks at the time.

Joseph Ives perfected a spring driven shelf clock using flat leafed springs instead of coiled ones.

Circa 1825 — Jerome patented a “bronze looking glass clock” with a 30-hour wooden movement, using a mirror instead of a tablet and bronze-colored pilasters. Jerome specialized in case building and usually bought his movements from others.

Joseph Ives learned how to make rolled brass. He moved to Brooklyn, New York, where he stayed briefly and invented the wagon spring to power a clock. The wagon spring is a series of flat-leafed arched springs that resemble those used in wagons.

1825 to 1920  — “OG” or “ogee,” S-curved, veneer-framed clocks were made and sold widely throughout this 95-year period. They were prolonged best sellers.

1830 — Eli Terry’s son, Silas B. Terry, patented a method for tempering coiled springs so they could be produced inexpensively.

The spring balance was invented.

After 1830 — Rolled brass became more available for clock movements.

1833 — Eli Terry retired from active clock making.

1836 — James S. Ives of Bristol received a patent for a brass coiled clock spring.

Circa 1840s — Elias Ingraham, Bristol, designed a Gothic clock popularly called a “steeple” clock.

1840 — Spring driven clocks were introduced.

The largest clock factory was the Jerome Company owned by Chauncey Jerome.

1840 to 1842 — Jerome sent a shipment of his brass clocks to England. The English authorities bought the entire lot. He sent another lot and they bought all of these, too. When the first shipment arrived, the English buyers realized that a really inexpensive and reliable clock was being imported and they allowed them to be sold.

1840 to 1850 — Watch ConditionAll American clocks were weight driven until the mid-19th century because the United States did not have rolling mills that were capable of producing spring steel.

1844 — Brothers Elias and Andrew Ingraham formed a partnership with Elisha C. Brewster and started producing the steeple clock, which rapidly gained in popularity. This innovation soon replaced the large three-section Empire case, known as a “triple-decker,” which was a popular item among Connecticut clock makers of the 1830s.

1845 — By this year clocks were made in Connecticut at the rate of nearly a million a year.

1847 — An economic depression stopped American clock making and was the end of the wooden clock movement.

1849 — American Clock Company, New York City, was organized as a large depository to sell clocks made by various clock makers. The company issued a catalog showing the clocks that were for sale.

1850 — Weight driven clocks were gradually replaced by spring driven ones.
The Ansonia Clock Company was established in Ansonia, Conn., by Anson Phelps.

Circa 1850 — Brass-coiled springs were largely replaced by better and cheaper steel springs.

1850 to 1860 — The production of tall clocks came to a standstill.

Circa 1851 — John H. Hawes of Ithaca, N.Y., patented the first known simple-mechanism calendar clock.

1859 — Westminster chimes were introduced.

1864 — Mozart, Beach & Hubbell patented a perpetual-calendar clock that needed to be wound only once a year.

1866 — Plymouth Hollow became Thomaston, Conn., to honor the Seth Thomas name. As a result, clock labels were changed to “Thomaston.”

1867 — A battery-operated clock was marketed.

1869 — Celluloid, a flammable plastic, was developed. It was later used on clock cases to simulate tortoise shell, amber, onyx and other materials.

1871 — Daniel Gale, Sheboygan, Wis., patented an astronomical calendar clock dial.Daniel Pratt Jr Upright OG Clock

1880 — H.J. Davis made an illuminated alarm clock.

1885 — The Sidney Advertising Clock Company, Sydney, N.Y., developed a large wall clock on which advertising drums turned every five minutes.

1886 to 1916 — Darche Electric Clock Company, Chicago and Jersey City, N.J., made battery-alarm timepieces.

Circa 1888 — The Self Winding Clock Company, New York City and Brooklyn, made battery-powered and electric clocks.

Late 1800s — Simplex Company of Gardner, Mass., made time recorders and time clocks.

Clock Glossary

From “Warman’s American Clocks”

Adamantine — Patented, colored celluloid applied as a veneer.

Advertising Clock — Advertising ClockA clock that displays promotional information on their cases, dials or tablets. Two early U.S. advertising clock caompnies began manufacturing these wall clocks in the late 1800s. The first was the Sidney Advertiser Company of Sidney, N.Y.; the second was the Baird Company of Plattsburgh, N.Y. Baird’s early clock cases were made of papier-mache. Later, they were made of wood. Sidney featured a clock with ads placed on a drum that turned every five minutes.

Annular Clock — Annular ClockA shelf clock that gets its name from their characteristic construction, in which the dial moves in a circle, while the hand remains stationary, indicating the time as the dial passes beneath. Annular clocks commonly have a single hand, but some have two hands, each pointing to a separate ring of numbers, one ring displaying the hours, the other the minutes.

Arc —  path the pendulum takes when swinging.

Balance —  wheel that regulates the rate of movement in clock parts.

Banjo Clock — Banjo ClockA type of wall clock patented by Simon Willard in 1802. While he called it his “Improved Timepiece,” it became known as the banjo clock because of its shape. It featured a pendulum that could be screwed down so the clock could easily be moved without damaging its suspension. Unlike many clocks of that day, the banjo clock is an original design rather than a version of a European clock. Although its popularity diminished after 1860, it has been copied frequently ever since.

Barrel —  cylinder in a clock that contains the timepiece.

Beat —  the ticking sound made by the working mechanisms of a clock.

Black Mantel/Temple-Style Clock —  Black Clock“Blacks” or black mantel shelf clocks, were popular from about 1880 to 1920. Because black walnut was in short supply, these clocks typically were made of other black enameled wood, enameled cast iron or black marble. They often had elaborate inlays, engravings and brass ornamentation. They were sometimes called “temple-style” when they resembled Greek temples.

Blinking Eye Clock —  clock in the form of a human or animal with eyes that blink in time with the beat.

Bob —  end of a pendulum, generally disc-form.

Boulle —  tortoiseshell, ivory and metal inlay on wood.

Bracket Clocks — Bracket ClockBracket clocks are sometimes mistakenly called mantel clocks because they look like they could sit on a shelf. However, they are actually designed to rest on a bracket attached to a wall. In addition, bracket clocks were produced about 50 years before mantel clocks. Being early models, bracket clocks were not mass produced. Rather, all parts were painstakingly made and assembled in a single shop.

Calendar Clock — Calendar ClockIn about 1853, John Hawes of Ithaca, N.Y., made the first simple calendar clock in the United States. Several years later, the first perpetual calendar clocks were produced. Perpetual calendar clocks are superior because they automatically adjust for leap years and differing numbers of days in the months. Most calendar clocks have two dials, one for time and the other for the date.

Carriage Clocks — Carriage ClockCarriage clocks were designed to hang inside coaches and often were covered with leather cases to protect them. They typically feature a rectangular brass case and glass front and sides, a porcelain dial, and a bail-type handle on the top. Many also have a smaller subsidiary alarm dial below the main dial.

Cartel Clocks — Cartel ClockCartel clocks are carved wood or gilt metal wall clocks surrounded by very ornate decorations of ribbons, scrolls, leaves and vines. The design was especially popular in France during the reign of Louis XVI.

Case — the framework of a clock that contains the working parts.

Celluloid — trade name for the first plastic, invented in 1869, that received wide commercial use.

Chapter Ring — part of the dial that contains the numerals and the marks for minutes and seconds.

Cottage Clocks — Cottage ClockThe cottage clock is a shelf model first made in the 1800s. It was popular until the beginning of the 20th century. Most cottage clocks have 30-hour movements, wooden cases less than 12 inches high and flat or three-sided tops.

Crystal Regulator Clocks — Crystal Regulator ClockCrystal regulators are shelf clocks so named because they typically have clear glass panels on all four sides, allowing their works to be seen. They also are known for being precise timekeepers.

Cuckoo Clocks — Cuckoo ClockCuckoo clocks, which originated in the Black Forest of Germany in the 1700s, are wall clocks that usually have ornately carved wooden cases in the shape of a house or cottage and are decorated with birds and foliage. On some models, when the clock strikes the hour, a bird pops out from behind a door, chirping the number of times that corresponds to the time.

Deadbeat Escapement — escapement with no recoil.

Escapement — mechanism that regulates the movement of the pendulum or balance wheel.

Fusee — grooved cone that equalizes the tension in a spring-driven clock, regulating its speed.

Gallery Clocks — Gallery clocks, first introduced in 1845, have large, round dials printed with large, dark numbers so they can easily be read from a distance, which made them idea for use in train stations, lobbies and other large public gathering places. They generally have plain cases with narrow borders to lend aesthetic balance to the oversized dials.

Gimbal —  bracket device, usually seen in ships’ clocks, that supports a timepiece and keeps it level.

Glass-Dome Clocks — Glass Globe ClockGlass-dome clocks, like crystal regulators, expose their works to view. The domes are most often tall and arrow and are seated on circular wooden bases. The domes are especially effective in protecting the clocks because they provide an airtight seal against dust that could collect on the works.

Gothic/Beehive Clocks — Gothic Beehive ClockGothic clocks are so named because their shape incorporates the classic gothic arch. They also are known as “beehive” clocks because they also resemble the gently curving cone shape of a beehive. These clocks were widely produced by most U.S. clock manufacturers from the 1840s until the early 1900s.

Grande sonnerie clock —  French term for a clock that repeats the hour strike on the quarter hour.

Grandfather Clocks — Grandfather ClockGrandfather clocks, also known as hall, tall, floor or long-case clocks, are weight-driven clocks first made in England in the 1600s. They were among the most common early clocks in the colonies because the settlers did not yet have mills capable of producing springs for spring-driven clocks. Grandfathers were large because they required a tall case to provide an adequate drop for the weight to power the clock. Those made in the colonies were copies of English styles.

Hair-spring — slender hair-like coil that controls the regular movement of the balance wheel in a clock.

Horology —  science of measuring time or making timepieces.

Label — paper inside a clock case that often had not only the name of the manufacturer but also operating instructions and advertisements for the manufacturer.

Lantern Clocks — Lantern ClockLantern clocks first were produced in England and follow a Gothic design. Their frames and sides are primarily made of brass with a dial that overlaps the front. The top forms an arch that makes it resemble a hand-held lantern.

Long Case Clock (a.k.a. tall case clock) —  another name for a grandfather clock.

Lyre Clock — variation of a banjo clock with a wood case somewhat resembling a lyre.

Mantel-Garniture Clocks — Mantel Garniture ClockMantel garniture sets incorporate ornate clocks and accompanying pairs of urns, candelabra or statues. Theyw ere most popular at the beginning of the 20th century and were produced primarily in France.

Mercury Pendulum — cylindrical pendulum with a silvery look made to resemble those in France that originally contained actual mercury.

Metal-Front/Metal-Case Clock — Metal Front ClockMetal-front and metal-case clocks became more common in the United States after the mid-1850s as more foundries opened. Until then, wood had been the primary material for clock cases and works. Metal cases commonly were molded with elaborate designs and then painted or gilted.

Mirror Clocks — Mirror ClockThe mirror clock had a “looking glass” that replaced the usual picture or design, which made it popular among thrifty housewives who likd its dual purpose. The mirror clock enjoyed its heyday during the American Empire period, from 1825 to 1840.

Movement — the mechanism of a clock that produces motion.

Novelty Clocks — Novelty Clock Owl Novelty Clock ANovelty clocks have unusual features specifically designed to entertain. Ansonia was one of the first manufacturers to produce novelty clocks, patenting the swinging and bobbing doll models in the 1850s. In the 1880s, the New Haven Clock Company produced the Flying Pendulum Clock, considered one of the most creative novelty clocks ever made. Other major novelty clock manufacturers include Lux and Keebler.

Number cartouche (a.k.a. signet) — separate decorative panel in a dial on which a numeral is painted or attached.

Octagon Clocks — Octagonal ClockOctagon clocks often were referred to as “schoolhouse clocks,” but they were also used in large workplaces and factories to keep employees informed of the time. They are classified as short drop or long drop, depending on the length of the case. They were most common from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s.

OG (Ogee) Clocks — Ogee ClockAn OG clock is one that has an ogee, or an s-shaped molding, around the door of its box frame. It typically has a decorated tablet, and early models were more than two feet tall to accommodate their weight-driven movements. OGs were best sellers for nearly a hundred years, from 1825 to 1920.

Open Escapement (a.k.a. visible escapement) — the working parts of a timepiece that can be seen through an opening, generally located in the center of the dial.

Parlor Clock — Parlor ClockParlor clocks are products of the Victorian era. Reflecting the formal style of this mid-to-late 1800s period, they were elegant in design and intended to be displayed on a shelf or mantel in a family’s parlor, typically the best room in the house, where guests were entertained. These clocks often have carved walnut cases and stenciled glass doors.

Pediment — ornamental top on a clock case, frequently curved in shape.

Pendulum — clock weight, often ornamental, hung from fixed point so as to swing as it regulates a clock’s movement.

Perpetual clock — calendar clock that automatically adjusts to the variations in the length of months and doesn’t need manual adjusting from month to month.

Pillar-And-Scroll Clock — Pillar And Scroll ClockEli Terry, considered “The Father of the Clock Making Industry,” created the pillar-and-scroll design in about 1816. It was probably America’s first mass-produced clock. The case characteristically has a scroll-cut top with three-urn form finials, a slender pillar on each side and a reverse-painted glass tablet below the dial.

Porcelain/China Clock — Porcelain China ClockPorcelain/china clocks have cases made of glazed ceramics. Although the Royal Bonn Company of Germany made many of these colorful handpainted cases with French or rococo sashes, the Ansoni Clock Company made most of the works.

Pressed Oak Clocks — Pressed Oak ClockInexpensive oak kitchen clocks were produced in large numbers from the late 1800s to about 1915. Their pressed designs were created with a rotary press that forced the design into the wood after steam had softened it. The clocks also featured glass panels decorated with bronze or silver gilt.

Regulator Clock — usually a large wall clock with a long case enclosing the dial above a long pendulum, noted for its time-keeping accuracy.

Reverse-Painting — decoration painted on the back of a glass panel or tablet.

Spandrels — decorations that fill the space in the corners around the chapter ring of a dial.

Statue/Figural Clocks — Statue Figural ClockFigural clocks, now known as statue clocks, feature representations of people, animals or mythical beings. Internationally, France was the most significant manufacturer of these clocks. Within the United States, the Ansonia Clock Company was the early leader.

Steeple Clocks — Steeple ClockIn the 1840s, Elias Ingraham created this clock with appointed Gothic-style “roof,” two or four spires and decorated glass tablet. The clocks used the newly developed brass springs and were tremendously popular.

Strike Train — gears that regulate the striking on a time-and-strike clock.

Subsidiary dial —  small dial incorporated into the main dial that indicates something beyond hours and minutes (i.e. seconds, days of the week, etc.).

Sweep seconds hand —  subsidiary hand that sweeps around the dial, indicating seconds.

Swinging Arm Clocks —Swinging Arm Clock A swinging-arm clock is one in which a figure, often a classical maiden, holds aloft a swinging pendulum. The top of the pendulum holds the clock, while the bob at the bottom helps regulate the time. Swinging-arm clocks were made to be displayed in jewelry store windows to capture the attention of potential customers.

Tablet — decorative glass panel on the front of a clock case, frequently reverse-painted or stenciled.

Tambour Clocks — Tamour ClockThe tambour clock is also known as ahumpback or camelback clock because of the distinctive shape of its case, which is round in the center with sides that gently slope away and flatten. the style, introduced at the beginning of the 20th century, has remained popular and is still being produced today.

Time-And-Strike — clock that both indicates time and strikes the hours or increments of hours with a bell or gong.

Tower Clock — clock situated in the tower of a public structure.

Two-and-Three-Deck Clocks — Three Deck ClockIn the 1830s, during the American Empire Period, Elias Ingraham invented the three-deck, or triple-decker clock. Its tall case accommodated the drop needed for a weight-driven clock, as the springs required for a spring-driven clock could not be manufactured in the United States. Within 15 years, smaller clock cases became more popular, and the production of two- and three-deck clocks began to wane.

Wag-on-the-Wall Clock — Wag On The Wall ClockThe wag-on-the-wall style of clock gets its name because it doesn’t have a case to enclose the pendulum. Thus, the pendulum is completely exposed as it swings back and forth. In the United States, early clocks were sometimes made without cases to make the works easier and cheaper to transport over long distances. While the owner had the essential parts needed to keep the time, once he arrived at his destination, he had the option to have a case built to make a conventional clock.

Wagon Spring —  series of flat springs, used instead of a coil spring to power a clock movement.

Wall Regulator Clock — Wall Regulator ClockA regulator is a clock with exceptional accuracy, made possible by the invention of the deadbeat escapement in 1715. Regulators were called such because their accuracy allowed them to be used for regulation of less-accurate clocks and watches. In fact, they were used in train stations and jewelry stores, where great accuracy was essential. Over time, however, less accurate clocks were labeled regulators, so eventually the term “regulator” just became a generic name for a hanging wall clock.

Weights — heavy objects, usually cylindrical, that drive the movement in non-spring-driven clocks.

Zebrawood (a.k.a. Zebrano) — straw-colored African wood with fine stripes that is sliced and used for veneer to cover unattractive wood.